1999: It all started with Japanese Street Fashion

Street Fashion Archive — Fri, 03 Oct 2025 18:53:20 GMT

It was the beginning of 1999, I was in 10th grade when my art teacher brought a stack of catalogues and brochures into class as inspiration for our next project. Among them was “Kokeshi Dolls” (“Kokeshi Puppen” in german) by United Colors of Benetton, shot in Omotesandō by Oliviero Toscani with a foreword by Banana Yoshimoto. Curious as ever, my friend and I asked her where she had found it. She mentioned a small boutique downtown, and the very next weekend we went there, determined to get our own copy. I still remember the excitement when I held it in my hands for the first time.

left: my original issue from the boutique – right: a better looking version I bought online some time ago

The catalogue immediately stood out — not only because of the cover, which showed a Japanese woman in a razor-sharp 1960s bob, dressed in a futuristic military-style outfit, but also because of its sheer size. At 24 x 34 cm, it was huge compared to most magazines. Inside were 92 vibrant photographs of street fashion, each look incorporating at least one Benetton piece, yet blending seamlessly into the individuality of the outfits. Between the photo spreads were short model profiles — name, age, and a quirky quote — accompanied by images of traditional Japanese items such as waraji sandals or kabuki brushes, photographed by Mariosia Toscani Ballo. This mix of contemporary fashion with cultural references gave the whole publication a very unique rhythm.

What fascinated me most was the range of styles: futuristic cyberpunk, kawaii schoolgirl aesthetics, minimal 90s looks, even yukata and kimono paired with modern pieces. A recurring detail was the silver wire jewelry — twisted into butterflies, wrapped around objects, combined with bright PVC tubing. It looked technical, experimental, and gave the outfits a sci-fi touch. Only later did I realize, through FRUiTS magazine, that this was a real Tokyo street trend at the time.

left: FRUiTS Magazine No. 119 / 06.2007 – right: FRUiTS Magazine No. 216 / 09.2015

Back then, smartphones didn’t exist and even the internet wasn’t as present in everyday life. Still, somewhere along the way, I discovered the FRUiTS book by Shoichi Aoki — probably via the FRUiTS LiveJournal community. By Christmas 2001 it was at the top of my wishlist. I still remember unwrapping it and being overwhelmed by the sheer energy of the photographs, while my parents couldn’t quite understand why I was so fascinated by this thick book of japanese youths in colorful outfits — and why it cost around 35 €, which felt like a lot at the time.

left: FRUiTS (2001) – right: Fresh FRUiTS (2005)

That book became my holy grail. It marked not just the start of a growing collection of magazines and street style publications, but also the beginning of a lifelong fascination with the ways everyday people use fashion as self-expression.

Finally I get to share my passion with other people and I hope you enjoy what´s to come.